Gadenin日本語Get the appThe year in outline
There is very little to do, and most of the skill is in doing the few things at the right time. Anything that makes a wound, repotting, taking cuttings, removing a branch, belongs to spring and summer when the plant heals in weeks rather than never. Autumn and winter are protective seasons whose whole purpose is to keep the base of the stem dry and the plant above 50F (10C).
| Season | Watering | Jobs |
|---|---|---|
| Spring | Restart once new growth appears | Repot, take cuttings, first feed, move to brighter light |
| Summer | Soak every two to three weeks when dry | Watch for mealybugs, stake tall stems, feed twice |
| Autumn | Stretch intervals, then stop | Stop feeding, bring outdoor plants in, no cutting |
| Winter | None, or a splash every six weeks if warm | Keep dry and above 50F (10C). Check the base fortnightly |
Spring: wait for the signal, then do the disruptive work
Do not start on the calendar, start on the evidence. The signal is fresh growth at the top of the stem: small bright leaves unfurling, or a visibly paler green section of new column. Until you see it the roots are idle and any water you give simply sits in the compost.
Once it is growing, this is the window for everything else. Repot plants that need it, take cuttings, remove any branch that is in the way, and give the first dilute feed. Move plants back towards their brightest position gradually over two weeks so the sun-facing side does not scorch after months of low winter light.
This is also the moment to deal with any damage winter caused. Softness at the base that you were watching through the cold months must be cut out now, above the damage, with the wound rinsed in cold water and dried hard before anything is potted.
Gloves and eye protection for every spring job. Everything you do this season makes a wound, and every wound bleeds caustic latex under pressure.
Summer: growth, and mostly leaving it alone
Summer is when the plant actually adds height, and when it needs the least intervention. Water thoroughly whenever the compost has been dry for several days, which usually means every two to three weeks in a warm bright room, always at the edge of the pot rather than over the growing point. Feed twice through the season with a balanced feed at half the strength on the label, no more.
Plants can go outside for the summer if they are acclimatized over a fortnight and stood under an eave or overhang where rain cannot reach the compost. The extra light produces noticeably thicker growth. Check the ribs and growing tip for mealybugs each time you water, and stake anything tall before it leans rather than after.
| Task | Frequency | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Deep water when the mix is dry through | Every two to three weeks | Fills the stem without leaving damp at the base |
| Check ribs and tip for pests | Every watering | Ten mealybugs are easy, a thousand are not |
| Balanced feed at half strength | Twice in the season | Enough for the year without soft weak growth |
| Rotate the pot a quarter turn | Every few weeks | Keeps the column growing straight |
| Take cuttings | Any time it is warm | Wounds callus in two to three weeks |
Autumn: the season that decides whether it survives winter
Autumn work is almost entirely about water. A plant going into cold weather with dry compost survives temperatures that turn the same plant to mush if its roots are wet. Start stretching the intervals as soon as nights turn cool, then stop watering altogether once growth has clearly halted.
Bring any plant that spent the summer outdoors back inside while nights are still mild, well before the first cold snap, and put it straight into the brightest indoor position you have. Stop feeding early; late feeding produces soft growth that will not survive the winter. Do not repot, do not take cuttings, and do not cut anything off. Fresh wounds plus cooling damp compost is the exact combination that causes rot.
Check the base of each stem with a fingertip as you bring plants in. It should be hard and woody. Anything that gives slightly needs dealing with now, while there is still enough warmth for a cutting to callus.
The usual autumn mistake is leaving the taper too late. If you are wondering whether it is too early to stop watering, it is not.
Winter: keep it warm, bright and dry
Winter is a holding pattern. Keep the plant above 50F (10C), in the brightest spot available, in compost that stays dry. A plant in a genuinely warm bright room can take a small splash of water at the edge of the pot every six to eight weeks, given in the morning. A plant somewhere cool gets nothing at all until spring.
Some shrinkage or slight wrinkling over winter is normal and reverses within weeks of the spring restart. Watering in response to it is how most of these plants are lost. Do not feed, do not repot, do not cut, and do not shuttle a plant repeatedly between a warm room and a cold windowsill.
The one active job is inspection. Every two weeks, press the base of the stem, look into the rib grooves for mealybug fluff, and check that no draft or cold pane is chilling one side. Softness at the base found in the depths of winter and dealt with immediately is survivable; the same softness found once growth has resumed in spring usually is not.
The five dates worth recording
Keep a short seasonal record for each plant: the date growth restarted in spring, the date of the last watering before winter, the date of any repotting or cutting, the coldest temperature its winter position reached, and the height of the plant at the end of each summer. Nothing else is needed.
After two years those figures answer the questions that otherwise stay guesswork. They show whether your growing season is really as long as you assume, whether a particular position produces thicker growth than another, and how far in advance of the cold you need to stop watering to avoid trouble at the base.