How to Propagate String of Pearls: Stem Cuttings, Water Rooting and Division

Choose a method and a season

Stem cuttings are the easiest way to multiply string of pearls. Because the strands naturally root where they touch the ground, cuttings rarely fail. You can also root strands in water or divide a large plant. All three work best during active growth, and late spring into early summer is the most reliable window.

Avoid peak summer heat and winter cold. Cuttings root slowly then and are much more likely to rot.

Prepare the cuttings

Take cuttings from healthy strands with plump, evenly colored beads. Shriveled strands or ones with widely spaced beads root more slowly. Combining propagation with a trim of overlong strands tidies the plant and wastes nothing.

1. Pick healthy strands Choose strands with firm beads and no pests or damage. The younger growth toward the tips roots especially well.
2. Cut into short lengths With clean scissors, cut the strand into pieces about 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm) long. One long strand can supply several cuttings.
3. Strip the lower beads Gently pull off the beads from the bottom half inch to an inch (1 to 2 cm) to expose bare stem. Beads buried in the soil tend to rot.
4. Let the cut ends dry Leave the cuttings in bright shade for a day or two so the cut ends seal over. Dry ends are much less likely to rot once planted.

Root the cuttings in soil

Plant cuttings in a gritty succulent or cuttings mix. Because roots form at the nodes along the strand, laying the cutting on the surface so several nodes touch the soil often works better than pushing a stem in deep. Several cuttings in one pot fill out into a full plant much sooner.

1. Lightly moisten the mix Fill a shallow pot with mix and dampen it slightly. It should feel barely moist, never soggy, or the cuttings will rot.
2. Insert or lay the cuttings Push the bare stem into the mix, or lay the strand on the surface so the nodes touch the soil. Pin down any that lift with a bent paper clip.
3. Keep in bright shade Until roots form, keep the pot out of direct sun. Mist or lightly water when the surface dries.
4. Move to brighter light once rooted In two to three weeks roots form and the cuttings resist a gentle tug. Then move them gradually into brighter light and normal care.

Root strands in water

Strands can also be rooted in a glass of water, which lets you watch progress and suits beginners. Cut a slightly longer piece and keep the beads above the waterline. Move the cutting into soil soon after roots appear so it adapts more easily.

1. Cut a longer strand Cut about 6 inches (15 cm) from a strand tip and strip the beads from the lower part. Only bare stem should sit in the water.
2. Keep it bright, not sunny Stand the cutting in a small jar of water in bright, indirect light. Change the water every few days to keep it fresh.
3. Pot it up when roots show Roots usually appear in about two weeks. When they reach half an inch (1 to 2 cm), plant the cutting in succulent mix and keep it in bright shade for a while.

Divide a large plant

A plant that has filled its pot can be divided when you repot in spring or fall. Each division already has roots, so it grows on as an independent plant from day one. The strands tangle, so tease them apart slowly to avoid losing beads.

1. Unpot a dry plant Let the mix dry for a few days, then slide the plant out of its pot. Hold the strands together so the beads are not crushed.
2. Split the root ball Loosen the root ball and pull it apart by hand into two or three sections along natural divisions, each with roots and strands.
3. Pot each piece Plant each division in a shallow pot and keep it in bright shade. Water after three or four days and move to brighter light once new growth starts.

When propagation goes wrong

Cuttings rarely fail, but the wrong season or too much water can rot them or stop them rooting. If a batch fails, work out why and try again with better conditions. Take more cuttings than you need so a few losses do not matter.