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Godetia dislikes acid soil. On ground that tends toward acid, work in dolomite lime a couple of weeks before planting, at roughly 6 ounces per square yard (about 200 g per square meter), and dig it in well so it is mixed through the root zone rather than sitting on top. Where the soil is already neutral or slightly alkaline you can skip this. A simple soil test kit tells you which side of the line you are on.
Drainage matters more than richness. This is a plant from dry summer slopes, and cold wet soil around the crown in winter is what kills autumn-sown plants. On heavy or poorly drained ground, raise the bed by about 4 inches (10 cm) so the crowns sit above standing water after rain. A little compost helps the structure, but do not load the bed with manure.
- Test or judge the soil pH If the soil is acid, or you garden where rhododendrons and blueberries thrive without help, plan to lime.
- Lime two weeks ahead Spread about 6 ounces of dolomite lime per square yard (about 200 g per square meter) and dig it in thoroughly.
- Raise heavy ground Mound the bed about 4 inches (10 cm) above the path so winter rain drains away from the crowns.
- Plant at the right spacing Set tall types about 8 inches (20 cm) apart and dwarf types about 6 inches (15 cm) apart, so air can move between them.
Sun and air, every hour you can give
Give godetia full sun. In partial shade the stems stretch, flop and carry fewer flowers, and the foliage stays damp for longer after rain, which is the opening that stem rot and powdery mildew are waiting for. An open bed where the wind can pass through is better than a sheltered corner against a wall.
Spacing is part of the same job. It is tempting to crowd plants for an instant show, but a tight planting of godetia turns into a humid thicket just as it comes into bloom. Keep to the recommended distances and the plants fill the gaps themselves within a few weeks of warmer weather.
Water sparingly, feed lightly
Once established, godetia needs less water than most bedding annuals. Water newly planted plants until they are clearly growing, then only when the top inch (2.5 cm) of soil is dry. Overwatering in cool weather is a far greater risk than drought, and constantly moist soil softens growth and invites rot at the base. Water the soil rather than the foliage, and in the morning rather than the evening.
Go easy on fertilizer. Lean soil and modest nitrogen give more flowers and firmer stems; a rich bed and regular high nitrogen feeding give big leafy plants that bloom late and flop. If the ground was reasonably fertile to begin with, a single light dose of a balanced or low nitrogen fertilizer as growth picks up in spring is plenty. Pot-grown plants can have a weak liquid feed every two or three weeks.
| Task | Timing | Detail |
|---|---|---|
| Lime the bed | Two weeks before planting | About 6 oz per sq yd (200 g per sq m) of dolomite lime |
| Water | Only when the top inch is dry | At the base, in the morning |
| Feed | Once as spring growth starts | Balanced or low nitrogen; keep it light |
| Pinch | Young plants, a few weeks after planting | Take out the tip for more side shoots |
| Stake | Before tall types reach full height | Twiggy sticks or a grid of string |
Pinch for bushier plants
Pinching out the growing tip of a young plant makes it branch from lower down, and more branches means more flowering stems. Do it once, when the plant is well established and a few inches tall, by nipping off the top half inch (1 cm) just above a pair of leaves. Pinching a plant that is already forming buds only delays and shortens the display.
Varieties that already branch freely from the base need little or no pinching, and dwarf types stay compact on their own. Pinching is most useful on tall cutting types, where you want several good stems per plant rather than one.
Support the tall types early
Tall godetia, anything over about 18 inches (45 cm), gets top-heavy in bloom and can be flattened by a single storm of wind and rain. Push twiggy sticks around each group, or run a horizontal net or a grid of string across the bed about a third of the way up, while the plants are still well below their final height. The stems grow up through the support and hide it.
Dwarf and compact types, and plants grown in lean soil with plenty of sun, usually stand on their own. If your plants flop every year without support, the cause is more often too much shade, water or nitrogen than the variety itself.