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When to Plant Leek: Early and Late Cultivars Season by Season

A season-by-season plan for leeks: sow under cover in late winter, plant out in late spring, feed and blanch through summer, and harvest from late summer through winter by choosing early and late cultivars.

Published 2026-10-03 · Updated 2026-10-03

The leek year at a glance

Leeks occupy the ground for a long time, so a little planning pays off. In cool and cold climates the season runs from a late winter sowing under cover to harvests that start in late summer and can continue into the following spring. In hot-summer climates, the same pattern shifts into the cool months. The table below shows the cool-climate version; adjust it by your own last and first frosts.

SeasonMain jobDetails
Late winterSow under coverTrays or modules indoors or in a cold frame
Early to mid springGrow on seedlingsTrim tops if they flop; outdoor seedbed sowing in mild areas
Late spring to early summerTransplantPencil-thick seedlings into deep dibbed holes or a trench
SummerFeed, water, blanchSide-dress, keep moist, earth up or collar in stages
Late summer to autumnHarvest early typesLift by size; watch for rust and leaf miners
Winter to early springHarvest late typesPull as needed before flower stalks form

In hot-summer, mild-winter climates, sow in late summer to early autumn, transplant as the weather cools, and harvest through winter and early spring before the heat returns.

Early versus late cultivars

Leek cultivars fall roughly into two groups. Early, sometimes called summer or autumn leeks, grow fast and make long, slender stems with paler, more upright leaves. They are ready first but are less cold hardy and are best used before winter sets in. Late, or winter, leeks grow more slowly and make shorter, thicker stems with darker blue-green leaves, often fanned out. They are the ones that stand through hard frost and fill the gap in the coldest months.

Seed catalogs usually say which group a cultivar belongs to. Familiar names include 'King Richard' among the early types and 'Musselburgh', 'American Flag' and 'Bleu de Solaise' among the hardy late ones. Growing one of each is the simplest way to have leeks across most of the year.

TraitEarly leeksLate (winter) leeks
StemLong and slenderShorter and thicker
LeavesPaler green, uprightDark blue-green, often fanned
Cold toleranceModerateVery hardy
UseLate summer and autumnLate autumn through winter

Fitting leeks into the garden plan

Because leeks go in late and stay late, they pair well with early crops. A bed that grew early peas, salad or new potatoes can often take leeks afterward if the leeks were raised in a tray or seedbed while the first crop finished. Plan rotation too: leeks belong with onions, garlic and shallots, and moving the whole onion family to a fresh bed each year reduces the build-up of soil-borne problems such as white rot.

  1. Choose your cultivars in winter Decide how many early and late leeks you want and order fresh seed, since leek seed loses viability quickly.
  2. Sow on time Count back from your planned planting date so the seedlings reach pencil thickness when the bed is free.
  3. Stagger plantings if you can Two plantings a few weeks apart, or a mix of early and late types, spread the harvest over a longer period.
  4. Lift the last before bolting Clear remaining overwintered leeks in spring as soon as you see flower stalks starting, and use the bed for a summer crop.

Read next

Keep a growing history for Leek

Type the plant name, add the planting date, and take photos as it grows. Next season you will have your own dates for sowing, flowering, and harvest instead of a generic calendar.

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