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Monstera Support: Moss Poles, Aerial Roots and Cutting Back

A support is for climbing, not just for propping the plant up. What you do with an aerial root depends on where it is heading.

It falls over because the weight moves up

A monstera is a climber. In a pot with nothing to climb, it extends sideways and the weight ends up beyond the pot, so it leans and then falls. That is the plant behaving normally, not a cultural failure.

What the plant is doingWhat is happeningWhich section to read
The stem lies over and leaves touch the floorThe weight has moved beyond the potChoosing a support
Long gaps between leaves, small leavesNot enough light, so it is stretchingKeeping it to a size
Thick aerial roots hanging over the potIt is looking for something to climbWhat to do with aerial roots
Taller than the supportBeyond what extending will fixCutting an overgrown plant back

A heavy terracotta or ceramic pot makes a real difference. A large plant in a light plastic pot goes over easily.

Choosing a support

The point of the right support is that the aerial roots can grip it. A bare cane holds the plant up but does nothing for leaf size, because the plant is not actually climbing.

TypeSuitsNotes
Tree fern poleMedium to large plants with aerial rootsRoots grip it when damp. The most stable
Coir wrapped poleLarge plants you will extend upwardYou can add sections. Dries out, so mist it
Plain caneSmall plants, temporary proppingRoots will not grip. It only supports
Three canes with a hoopPlants that have sprawledGood for drawing the stems back in

Tying it in

Tie the stem to the pole loosely at each node, and press the aerial roots against the pole rather than tying them tightly. Keep the pole damp and the roots attach themselves within a few weeks, after which the ties matter less.

Add ties as it grows rather than trying to bend a hardened stem later. Monstera stems become inflexible with age and snap if you force them.

What to do with aerial roots

Aerial roots are how the plant climbs and, once attached, how it takes up some water. They are not a fault and cutting them all off is a loss, but you do not have to keep every one.

Direct any root heading towards the pole onto the pole. Guide any root heading into the room down into the compost, where it will function as a root. Cut only those that are dried out, damaged, or genuinely in the way.

Cut an aerial root close to the stem with clean pruners and let it dry. Do not tear them off, which wounds the stem.

Keeping it to a size

You can hold a monstera at a size indefinitely: keep it in the same pot with fresh compost, root prune when you repot, and cut the longest stem back each year.

What does not work is trying to limit it by underwatering. The roots are damaged, the leaves yellow and drop, and the plant ends up looking far worse than a well grown one you pruned.

Cutting an overgrown plant back

A plant that has outgrown its support is cut back into a node, and the piece you remove is a cutting. Cut in late spring or early summer so both parts recover in the growing season.

Cut just above a node with an aerial root, and new shoots come from the nodes below. The top, with its node and aerial root, roots readily and becomes a second plant.

The sap irritates skin and mouths. Wear gloves and keep the cut material away from children and pets.

Growing it without a support

You can let a monstera sprawl, and some people prefer the look. The consequence is that it takes width rather than height, and the leaves stay smaller because it is not climbing.

Decide how much floor space you are prepared to give it before you choose. A sprawling mature plant occupies several feet in every direction.

Read next

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