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How to Sow Daikon Radish Seed Directly in the Ground

Daikon is always sown where it will grow. Sow three or four seeds per station, half an inch deep, and thin in two stages to one strong plant.

Sow in place, never transplant

Daikon sends a taproot straight down within days of germinating. Lift that root and put it in a new hole and the tip is damaged, and the plant answers by growing two or three thick side roots instead of one clean white column. That is the single most common cause of a forked daikon, and it happens before the plant is a week old.

So there are no seedlings, no modules and no transplanting. You sow into the finished bed and everything after that is thinning. This also means the bed has to be completely ready on sowing day, because you cannot fix the soil later without disturbing roots.

Sow in stations rather than a continuous drill. Three or four seeds dropped into one spot germinate more reliably than single seeds, and the seedlings shelter each other from wind and crusting soil while you decide which one to keep.

If a station fails to come up at all, resow that station immediately rather than shifting a spare seedling into the gap. A resown station catches up within two weeks; a transplanted one forks.

Temperature, depth and spacing

Daikon germinates fastest between 68F and 77F (20C and 25C) and will come up in three to four days at that temperature. It still germinates down to 59F (15C), just more slowly, and above 86F (30C) germination becomes patchy and the seedlings stretch. The main sowing is late summer into early autumn, when the soil is still warm but the days are shortening, because a plant that does most of its bulking in cool weather is sweeter and far less likely to bolt.

Depth matters more than people expect. Half an inch (1 cm) is right. Sown shallower the seed dries out and the seedling comes up leaning; sown deeper it uses up its reserves before it reaches the light and is weak from the start.

ItemTargetWhy it matters
Soil temperature68 to 77F (20 to 25C)Emergence in three to four days
Sowing depthAbout 0.5 in (1 cm)Deeper wastes seed reserves, shallower dries out
Seed per stationThree or fourInsurance against gaps and soil crusting
Station spacing10 to 12 in (25 to 30 cm)Room for the shoulder to widen
Row spacing16 to 20 in (40 to 50 cm)Leaf canopy is wide and heavy

Do not crowd daikon the way you would a salad radish. A full sized root is three inches across at the shoulder and the leaves span two feet, so under twelve inches of spacing you get thin roots and disease in the crowded leaf.

Sowing, step by step

The whole operation takes minutes, and each step exists to stop a specific failure later. Work on a bed that has been made and allowed to settle for at least a week, so it does not sink under the seedlings.

  1. Mark the stations Press the base of a jar or your knuckles into the level bed to make a shallow flat depression the size of a coffee cup at each station. A flat bottom keeps the seeds at one depth so they emerge together.
  2. Drop three or four seeds spread apart Space the seeds an inch apart inside the depression rather than dropping them in a pile. Seedlings that touch tangle their roots, and pulling one out then disturbs the one you meant to keep.
  3. Cover and firm gently Draw fine soil over to half an inch and press with the flat of your hand, just enough to bring soil into contact with the seed. Hard compaction is worse than none, because the seedling then cannot push through.
  4. Water once, thoroughly Water the whole bed until it is wet several inches down, then leave it. Repeated light sprinklings crust the surface and are the main reason stations come up half empty.
  5. Cover against flea beetle Lay insect netting over the bed on the day you sow and tuck the edges into the soil. Flea beetle finds daikon seedlings within a day or two, and a covered bed avoids the problem entirely.

Thin in two stages

Thinning is not just removing surplus plants, it is choosing. Do it in two stages so you always have something to compare against, and pull rather than cut, holding the soil around the plant you are keeping with your other hand.

The first thinning is at the first true leaf, taking each station down to two. Reject anything with damaged, notched or discolored leaves, anything obviously slower, and anything with a stem that has gone thin and stretched. The second thinning is at the second or third true leaf and leaves one plant per station.

StageLeaf stagePlants leftWhat to keep
First thinningFirst true leafTwo per stationSymmetrical leaves, thick short stem
Second thinningTwo to three true leavesOne per stationUpright growth, straight seed leaves
After thinningImmediatelyOneFirm soil back around the base and water

The two seed leaves are the best early clue. On a plant whose root will run straight, they sit opposite each other in a straight line. Where they are twisted or unequal, the root below is usually already crooked.

What to record at sowing

Daikon is judged by days from sowing more than any other root crop, so the sowing date is the number you will refer to all season. Write down the date you sowed, the position of each row on the bed, and the soil temperature if you took it.

Add a note on how many days emergence actually took and how many stations came up empty. Over two or three seasons that tells you whether your sowing depth and watering are right far more reliably than a single year does, and it tells you whether you are sowing too early into hot soil.

Read next

Keep a growing history for Daikon Radish

Type the plant name, add the planting date, and take photos as it grows. Next season you will have your own dates for sowing, flowering, and harvest instead of a generic calendar.

Free on iPhone. Android coming later.

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