When downy mildew appears
Downy mildew is the disease that costs spinach crops. It shows as pale yellow patches on the upper leaf with gray mold on the underside, and it moves fast in cool, wet conditions with poor air movement.
It arrives when temperatures sit at 59 to 68F (15 to 20C) with continued rain, or when dew lies late into the morning. A crop under a closed cloche, or one that was never thinned, is the one that gets it.
| Conditions | Risk | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| 59 to 68F (15 to 20C) with continued rain | High | Cut whatever is ready first |
| Dew lying late in spring | High | Line the bed up with the prevailing wind |
| A cloche kept closed | High | Open it during the day whenever it is fine |
| Still at an inch spacing | High | Do not put off the thinning |
Once it spreads close to harvest there is nothing to be done. Keeping the spacing is the insurance that actually works.
How to read resistance codes
Seed packets often list resistance to numbered races of downy mildew. The numbers refer to specific races, and a variety resistant to the races present in your area holds up while one bred for a different set does not.
Which races are around differs by region and changes over time, so a code alone is not a guarantee. Ask locally what has been appearing, and treat resistance as one factor rather than a solution.
Prevention that does not rely on the variety
Whatever variety you grow, the same three things reduce the disease: thin on time so air moves, keep the bed well drained, and ventilate any cover on fine days. All of these are decided by how you manage the crop rather than by what you spray.
Do not overfeed with nitrogen either. Dark, soft leaves are infected more readily, so the very deep green that looks like success is a liability here.
Soil mites show up as a soil preparation failure
When the growing point stops and the new leaves come out crumpled, the usual cause is mites feeding in the crown, and they build up on unrotted organic matter. They increase in cool, damp conditions, so autumn through spring crops are where you see it.
The response is not a spray but a change to how you prepare the bed. Use only well-rotted compost, add it a month or more ahead, and do not follow spinach with spinach.
If you see growing points stopping, look back at when and what organic matter you added rather than at this crop.
What to watch for through the year
Aphids bring virus with them, so the reason to control them is less the feeding damage than what they carry.
| Season | Watch for | What to do in advance |
|---|---|---|
| Spring | Aphids, leaf miners, downy mildew | Cover with row cover from germination to keep adults out |
| Summer | Caterpillars, damping off | Raised beds and drainage. Search at dusk |
| Autumn | Downy mildew, caterpillars, aphids | Resistant varieties and real spacing. Ventilate covers |
| Winter | Soil mites, wilt | Well-rotted material only, and rotate |
Telling similar symptoms apart
Several spinach problems produce yellow leaves, and reaching for a spray before you have identified which is how people waste time. Check the leaf underside, then the soil, then your records, in that order.
| Symptom | Disease or disorder | How to check |
|---|---|---|
| Yellow patches with gray mold underneath | Downy mildew | Turn the leaf over and look for the mold |
| Whole plant pale green and small | Acid soil or nitrogen shortage | Measure the pH and see if it responds to feeding |
| New growth crumpled, the center stopped | Soil mites | Look back at when you added organic matter |
| Wilts by day, recovers by evening | Simply dry | Dig down and check the moisture |